Anytime’s a Good Time for Mac ‘n Cheese

As the weather gets warmer as we begin to enter the summer season, I find myself less and less able to make the rich, warming, hearty winter foods that I am so fond of, the kind of traditional comfort food that inspired this blog. Yes, there are foods that can offer comfort in the hot weather (icy desserts, herby salads and lush, verdant vegetable soups, and light, flavorful dishes from the grill; all to be featured in the coming months…); however, I could not resist fitting in yet another carb-heavy, dairy-saturated, flavor-oozing side dish by cheating and calling it a side dish to barbecue, which I DO count as summer-appropriate.

This zippy, piquant macaroni and cheese gets a hit of spice and vinegary tang from a very generous dose of Tabasco sauce, as well as a sprinkling of cayenne pepper and some freshly grated nutmeg. Extra-sharp cheddar gives the dish that classic orange hue and the unmistakable flavor of real cheese (sorry, fellow Velveeta lovers, this is the REAL deal) but is rounded out with the mellower, creamier additions of Muenster, Swiss and cream cheese. The dish is baked until bubbling and then finished under the broiler to give the cheese and pasta shells some of those gorgeous dark brown blisters that impart a deep flavor and a crispy textural contrast to the tender pasta underneath.

Don’t let the seasons stop you from making the food you truly enjoy. Whether or not you need to put a spin on your rationale for making it, I think any time’s a good time for macaroni and cheese…

Four-Cheese Mac and Cheese

Adapted from a recipe from Slows Bar BQ

Total Time: 1 hr. 35 min. (40 min. prep, 55 min. inactive)

Yields: 6 servings

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup finely diced onion
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 quart whole milk
• 1/2 teaspoon celery salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 tablespoons Tabasco, or other hot sauce (I like Frank’s, or anything with chipotle)
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 10 ounces extra-sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (3 cups)
• 4 ounces Muenster cheese, shredded (1 1/4 cups)
• 2 ounces Swiss cheese, shredded (3/4 cup)
• 1/4 cup cream cheese
• Salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Butter, for the dish
• 1 pound medium pasta shells

Method

• In a large saucepan, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until translucent, 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 minute

• Stir in the flour to make a paste. Gradually whisk in the milk until smooth. Bring to a simmer, whisking, until the sauce thickens. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, whisking often, until no floury taste remains, 7 minutes. Add the celery seeds, mace, Tabasco and cayenne. Stir in the cheeses just until they melt. Remove from the heat and season the sauce with salt and pepper

• Butter a large, shallow baking dish. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta shells until almost al dente, about 4 minutes. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Stir in the cheese sauce until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish and let stand for 20 minutes

• Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°. Bake the pasta in the upper third of the oven for 25 minutes, until it’s bubbling and starting to brown. Turn the broiler on and broil the pasta for about 1 minute, until it’s browned and crisp on top. Let the mac and cheese rest for 10 minutes before serving